Monday, June 28, 2010

Day 2 in Roma: Vatican City


Today, we went to Vatican City. We took a guided tour, which turned out to be a fantastic idea because it saved us 5-8 hours waiting in line to get into the Vatican Museum, not to mention all the fantastic information she gave. I could once again go on forever about how ridiculous religion is (like how the Basilica was built by money for Indulgences*), but I won't; I will simply view it all as purely art.



More things I learned:

The Vatican has Swiss guards because when the Pope was hiring guards, the Swiss were the cheapest. Now it's just tradition. Their uniforms have over a thousand pieces and take 53 fittings before a new uniform is completed.



It is pretty easy to tell Roman and Greek sculptures apart. If the statue is standing on its own, then it is most likely Greek. However, if it is leaning on something, like a long piece of clothing or a tree or another person, then it is most likely Roman. This is because the Greeks were better at math and found it easier to properly balance the statue.

Michelangelo was sort of an asshole. First of all, he and Raphael were active at the same time, and there was Team R and Team M. It is rumored that Michelangelo's enemies convinced the Pope at the time to ask him to paint the ceiling of the Sistene Chapel because Micelangelo was a sculptor and didn't know how to paint. He said no at first, but the Pope insisted, so how was he supposed to disobey the Pope's order? Raphael's supporters were basically hoping that Michelangelo would fuck up the ceiling so that whatever Raphael painted inside the Chapel would be the focal point.**

So Michelangelo needed to learn how to paint and how to reach the ceiling. When he asked someone how he was to reach the ceiling, he wasn't sure if the person who told him was on his team or Raphael's, so he developed his own plans for a scaffolding, and this design is still used today by artists and historians.

When painting the ceiling, Michelangelo began painting too small and with thick, defined lines as one would sculpt. When he looked up from the ground, he realized his error and began painting bigger figures. The highly defined lines continued until nearer the end of his work.

He also did not like anyone else with him while he was working, so when the Pope came, Michelangelo would throw things off his scaffolding (wood, paint, etc.) until the Pope left.



In addition to the ceiling, Michelangelo also painted the wall: The Last Judgement. There are quite a few little trinkets in this piece, which is one of my favorites.
--The souls that did not sin a lot floated up to Jesus' throne of judgment easily, but those who sinned a lot had to be dragged up by the angels.
--Also, one of the souls (St. Bartholomew) is holding a knife and his skin because he was killed for his beliefs -- by being skinned alive, then crucified. This is where Michelangelo painted his self-portrait. We do not know for sure why he chose to paint himself on the bodyless skin, but there is much speculation, such as he was old and expected to die soon (though he ended up living for another 25 years).
--Michelangelo thought that the male human body was the most beautiful creation on earth, so his figures were almost always naked (wherever he had extra room on the ceiling of the Chapel, he painted naked men).
--In the Last Judgement, another artist was later asked to paint cloths over the naked men (the tour guide said she's only found 1 man who remained uncovered).
--Finally, my favorite tidbit about this piece is that, in the bottom right-hand corner, Michelangelo depicted one of his enemies -- who also happened to be a close friend of the Pope. He made this man a demon in hell; he gave him donkey ears and a snake is biting his genitals. When the man when to the Pope to complain, the Pope basically said, "If that's how Michelangelo painted it, then that is how it is."



Michelangelo only signed one work, and this was the Pietà. He did so after he overheard two people talking about this sculpture, and when one asked who created it, the other replied with an incorrect name. So Michelangelo sneaked in one night and carved "Michelangelo from Florence" right across Mary's chest. I could not see this signature from where I was standing, but I figured I'd google it later anyway. This gorgeous statue was carved from one solid block of marble. In 1972, a mentally disturbed geologist named Laszlo Toth attacked this sculpture with a hammer and harmed Mary's face and her left arm. (Wikipedia says that he did so while shouting "I am Jesus Christ -- risen from the dead"). They have since been restored, but now the statue can only be seen from behind a large sheet of acrylic protective glass.



I learned a lot and took a shit-ton of photos! Now I don't care to ever return.

After seeing the city, we ate, then returned to the hotel -- and here we sit. Everyone but me is asleep. I'm about to make some instant espresso and read some Infinite Jest. I have no idea what we're doing tonight. Tomorrow, we are going to the Pantheon (which we heard is unfortunately under construction) and returning to the Trevi Fountain for some light shopping and to stop at a particular gelato stand, then returning to the restaurant where we ate our first night in Roma (surprisingly, a lot of the food here is quite bland and mediocre -- I prefer my canned sauce from home because at least it has flavor!). Then Wednesday, we leave!

We won't get home until around 10pm Wednesday night, but I don't care. I think we're all ready to go home. Mom and Amanda said they would've preferred going to Roma first, then Sicilia, but I feel like either way, at this point, I would be ready to go home. I have a lot to do, though, and really don't want to go back to work, but oh well. It'll be fine.

But it has certainly been a great vacation. I have enjoyed it immensely so far (though my family's about done being together 24/7) and am ready for it to end. I want to return to Sicilia as soon as possible (because of older family), but I don't know if that will be a possibility.

In any case, buona sera!




*At one point in the Catholic church, when you went to confessional, each sin had a required donation associated with it; after paying, you would receive a document stating that you were forgiven for your sins. Similarly, you could buy Indulgences, which would ensure your dead relatives good perks in heaven.

** Speaking of focal points, the Sistene Chapel is one of the main pickpocketing locations because tourists are all looking up at the ceiling. There are 400 reported cases of pickpocketing in the Vatican City each day.

You don't have to tell me how ridiculous this is.

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